Gunkanjima, The Abandoned Battleship Island
Guide to Gunkanjima in Nagasaki
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Gunkanjima, or Battleship Island, might look like something straight out of a dystopian movie, and in fact, it has been. This eerie, abandoned island off the coast of Nagasaki gained global attention when it appeared in the James Bond film Skyfall, but its real story is even more fascinating. Once home to thousands of coal miners and their families, Gunkanjima was one of the most densely populated places on Earth in the 1960s.
However, when Japan transitioned from coal to oil, the island was swiftly deserted, leaving behind a ghostly relic of a bygone era. Today, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site that tells a story filled with lights and shadows about Japan’s rapid industrialization,—and a haunting reminder of how quickly fortunes can change.
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What is Gunkanjima?
Gunkanjima (軍艦島), the famous moniker that Hashima Island (端島) is known for, is a small, uninhabited island located about 20 kilometers from Nagasaki Port. Its nickname means “Battleship Island” because of its silhouette, which resembles a warship when seen from a distance. Other than that, this 480-meter-long and 150-meter-wide island had very little to do with military endeavors. Instead, it was once a thriving coal mining facility, operated by Mitsubishi, and was home to over 5,000 residents at its peak in the 1950s.
Brief History of Gunkanjima
The island’s history dates back to 1810 when coal was first discovered. By the late 19th century, it had developed into a bustling mining town amidst the country’s push for industrial development. The site’s prosperity soared further when Mitsubishi Corporation purchased it in 1890 and over the following decades invested heavily in local infrastructure for workers: apartment buildings, a school, a hospital, and even entertainment facilities.
Gunkanjima’s significance lies in its representation of Japan’s rapid industrialization during the Meiji era. In 2015, it was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site as part of the “Sites of Japan’s Meiji Industrial Revolution”. The island is a symbol of both the country’s industrial prowess and the complex history during that period, including the dark shadows of slave labor from Korean and Chinese war prisoners, until the end of World War II.
The postwar population drop was quickly recovered thanks to modernized facilities, as well as improved worker and living conditions, leading to an even higher number of laborers. But as Japan shifted from coal to oil as its primary energy source, the island’s importance started to dwindle towards the late 1960s. In 1974, the mine was closed, and the island was abandoned almost overnight, leaving behind a ghostly and crumbling landscape.
However, growing interest in the island as a heritage site despite having completely restricted access, coupled with ownership transfer to Nagasaki City, made it possible for Gunkanjima to become a tourist destination since 2009 through authorized tour operators.
What to Do in Gunkanjima
Visiting Gunkanjima is a unique opportunity to explore an eerie, abandoned world that few places can match. Here’s what you can do during your visit:
- Take a Guided Tour: The only way to visit Gunkanjima is through a guided tour. Several companies operate ferry tours with varying fees that depart from Nagasaki Port, where you can see the island’s exterior and, weather permitting, a chance to land and explore. Take into account that if weather is deemed to be too harsh, the tour may be canceled or limited to navigating to see the island but without docking. Not all tours have English guides available so it’s best to confirm beforehand.
- Explore the Ruins: Once on the island, you’ll walk along designated paths through the remnants of the mining town that are open to visitors. Tours typically last around 45 minutes or a bit less than one hour at most.
- Photography: The island’s landscape is a hauntingly beautiful backdrop for photography. Be sure to capture the island’s iconic silhouette, which resembles a battleship.
- Skyfall Connection: Fans of the James Bond film Skyfall can enjoy learning about the island’s connection to the movie, as parts of Gunkanjima inspired the villain’s lair in the film. You should know that only exterior shots were used though, as the state of the buildings deemed the location unsuitable for an actual movie set.
<<Book your Gunkanjima Island tour here!>>
How to Get to Gunkanjima
The island is only accessible by organized tours departing from Nagasaki Port, which is just a short 10-min tram or bus ride from Nagasaki Station. If you are coming straight from Nagasaki Airport, the port is about 40-min away on a limousine bus. Then, it takes about 50 minutes by ferry from Nagasaki Port to Gunkanjima. Overall, the entire tour takes between 2.5h to 3h from the time you depart until you’re back on the port. It’s strongly advisable to book online in advance! Particularly during peak travel seasons.
Once again, remember that tours are subject to weather conditions. If the sea is too rough, landing on the island may be canceled, though a cruise around the island may be offered if possible in such cases. Check the weather forecast and have a backup plan in case of cancellations.
Tourist Attractions Near Gunkanjima
Gunkanjima itself is a fascinating destination, and if you’re going all the way there, consider these other noteworthy attractions nearby that you might want to include in your itinerary:
1. Takashima Island
Just a short ferry ride from Gunkanjima, Takashima Island (高島) is included in one of the Gunkanjima tours as a brief stopover. This small island played a key role in Japan’s coal mining history, much like Gunkanjima, and has an interesting local history museum. Takashima is inhabited, which is a contrast to the ruins of Gunkanjima, and a very nice and relaxing destination worthy of its own standalone visit.
2. Goto Islands
The Goto Islands (五島列島) are a group of beautiful, remote islands west of Nagasaki, known for their stunning beaches, crystal-clear waters, and complex history linked to Christian persecution during the Edo period. Accessible by high speed ferry from Nagasaki Port, these islands are a slice of paradise that feels a world away from the industrial history of Gunkanjima. You can explore hidden Christian sites, indulge in fresh seafood, or simply unwind on its pristine beaches.
See also: 6 Must-See Churches and Christian Sites in Nagasaki
Information
 Access |
40-min flight from Nagasaki or Fukuoka to Fukue Airport or ferry routes from Nagasaki Port (varying times depending on destination island) |
|---|---|
 Official Website |
https://goto.nagasaki-tabinet.com/ |
3. Nagasaki Shinchi Chinatown
Nagasaki Shinchi Chinatown (長崎新地中華街) is Japan’s oldest Chinatown and a vibrant area filled with restaurants, shops, and colorful lanterns. Located near Nagasaki Port, it’s a great place to explore after your visit to Gunkanjima. You can enjoy traditional Chinese dishes like champon and sara udon, or simply stroll through the lively streets, soaking in the atmosphere. This bustling district offers a sharp contrast to the desolate landscapes of Gunkanjima.
Information
| Access |
10-min bus or 15-min tram from Nagasaki Port |
|---|---|
| Official Website |
http://www.nagasaki-chinatown.com/ |
4. Glover Garden
Glover Garden (グラバー園) is a historical park located on the slopes overlooking Nagasaki Port. The garden features beautiful Western-style buildings, some dating back to the late 19th century, and offers stunning views of the city and harbor. It was originally built got Thomas Glover, a Scottish merchant who played a significant role in Japan’s industrialization. It’s a great spot for a tranquil stroll with the backdrop of local history.
<<Book your Glover Garden tickets here!>>
Information
| Access |
18-min bus or 25-min tram from Nagasaki Port |
|---|---|
| Official Website |
http://www.glover-garden.jp/ |
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Written by
Photographer, journalist, and avid urban cyclist, making sense of Japan since 2017. I was born in Caracas and lived for 14 years in Barcelona before moving to Tokyo. Currently working towards my goal of visiting every prefecture in Japan, I hope to share with readers the everlasting joy of discovery and the neverending urge to keep exploring.
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